Home Gardeners Headline Newsletter
Summer 2004

Dear Home Gardener,

This has been an interesting spring in Berks County. We've had infestations of cicadas and of cankerworms in certain areas, but these pests-despite all the media hype-have been invisible over much of the county.

We've had multiple storms-but again, the effects have been spotty. Until recently, some areas were quite dry, while others were soggy. Steady rainfall in early June has now replenished our aquifers and we're going into the heat of summer in good shape nearly everywhere in the county.

With the spring lawn and garden work behind us, it's time to savor the results. Vegetables are coming on strong, flowers are lush, and lawns are green. Now is the time to enjoy gardening events that celebrate our abundance: strawberry festivals, garden tours, the Master Gardener Demo Garden Open House, and of course our county fair.

Happy Gardening!

Beth Finlay, Master Gardener Coordinator
Nancy Bosold, Extension Educator

Correction

In the spring issue, we printed an article on "Lawn Management Through the Seasons." It stated under the mowing section that you should cut your lawn to 1½ to 2 inches. This should have read 2-3" for most home lawns. At 2-3", you'll have better weed management and turf survival through the seasons.

Nancy Bosold, Extension Educator Turfgrass Management

Demonstration Garden Open House

Join the Berks County Master Gardeners on Saturday, July 24, 2004, from 9:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. for their Demonstration Garden Open House at the Berks County Agricultural Center. Participate in a garden tour, mini workshops, and demonstrations. Enjoy refreshments and get your gardening questions answered! Admission and all activities are free of charge.

Reading Fair

Don't forget! The Reading Fair is being held from August 8-14, 2004, at the Reading Fairgrounds. Grow your best fruits, vegetables, and flowers this summer so you're prepared to show them at the fair. Pick up a premium book at Boscov's, the Berks County Agricultural Center, or contact Suzy Sands at 610-779-2000 (ext. 3473). The premium books contain entry rules. Plan to participate!

Return to the top.

These Plants Can Have a Toxic Relationship with Gardeners

Many gardeners search for plants that are beautiful, but a gardening expert in Penn State's College of Agricultural Sciences says some plants can cause injuries or harmful effects that aren't pretty.

Most toxic plant reactions cause skin problems of some kind. Awareness and common-sense precautions can prevent most problems.

"If you develop a rash or some other symptom from contact with plants, collect a sample of all plants to which you were exposed," says Robert Nuss, professor of ornamental horticulture. "Samples will help your doctor identify the cause of the problem."

Nuss recommends that gardeners learn to identify problem plants. If exposed, gardeners should wash thoroughly as soon as possible. "Don't use soap containing oils," Nuss says. "Oils can spread toxins and promote skin absorption. Detergents or hand cleaners are the most effective."

Nuss lists some of the common plants that can have toxic or harmful effects on humans.

"Poison" plants. Poison oak, poison ivy, and poison sumac all contain the toxin urushiol in the sap of leaves, stems, fruit, flowers and roots, which can cause itchy rashes and other symptoms. The fruit of the gingko tree and the sap of the smoketree also can cause skin rashes.

Allergenic plants. Most allergic reactions are caused by pollen, bringing on hay fever or asthma. Mold spores can cause allergic reactions in sensitive individuals, as can some lichens that grow on rocks or trees.

Nuss says orchids, tulip bulbs, chrysanthemums, and dahlias can be allergenic to some individuals.

Skin irritant plants. The chemicals that plants have in leaves, bark, roots, bulbs, or flowers can cause direct skin irritations. "In many cases, the sap within the plant is the cause of the problem," Nuss explains. "Often the irritating substance is released only when the plant tissue has been damaged or mishandled."

Nuss says some common houseplants can cause skin irritation, including poinsettias, penciltrees, daffodils, hyacinths, and ornamental buttercups.

Stinging plants. Most nettles can cause a toxic reaction when touched, but the reaction does not have lasting effects and requires no medical treatment.

Thorny plants. The most common plant-related injuries are caused by thorns. "Most people don't seek medical help after getting stuck by a thorn," Nuss says. "But implanted thorns, needles or spines can cause infections or other medical problems."

Nuss says thorns embedded near joints can cause chronic arthritis. Thorns embedded near bones can mimic a bone tumor. Thorny plants that can cause painful injuries include roses, black locust and honeylocust trees, and blackberry bushes.

"Clothing, tools, and even smoke from burning plants can carry toxins," Nuss says. "Be sure to wash all clothing and tools after working with problem plants. The residues can be hazardous for a long time."
Source: Penn State University PenPages

Return to the top.

What Is Growing In My Landscape Mulch?

Landscape mulches are used to protect soil, conserve moisture, moderate soil temperature, and limit weed growth, as well as beautify and unify landscape plantings. Most mulches are mixtures of shredded wood and bark residues from lumber and paper mills, arboricultural and land-clearing operations, and wooden pallet disposal or recycling facilities.

Like other organic matter, wood and bark decompose over time. The primary organisms involved with their decomposition are bacteria and fungi, which derive their energy for growth from the carbon-based compounds found in wood and bark. These compounds include cellulose, lignin, and simple sugars. Bacteria are microscopic organisms that are not visible in the mulch. Fungi also may be microscopic, but many develop visible reproductive structures.

The fungi involved in the decomposition of landscape mulches are natural components of the mulch environment. Some fungi, such as the artillery fungus, are "recyclers" and break down woody tissue directly. Other fungi, such as slime molds, consume bacteria and other organisms living in the mulch. These fungi are not harmful to landscape plants, and no known health hazards are associated with them unless they are eaten. They can be found from April through October, usually following rainy weather.

Below we describe four common types of fungi growing in landscape mulches in the eastern United States-mushrooms, slime molds, bird's nest fungus, and artillery fungus.

Mushrooms
Common names: Mushrooms, toadstools
What do mushrooms look like? They come in various colors, shapes, and sizes ranging from less than an inch to several inches tall. Some are soft and fleshy and disappear soon after they emerge; others may remain in mulch for a few days, weeks, or an entire growing season.
Are they a problem? They may be poisonous if eaten.
What should be done? Appreciate their beauty, ignore them, or remove them.

Slime Molds
Common names: Slime molds, "dog vomit" fungus
Scientific names: Species of Physarum, Fuligo, and Stemonitis
What do slime molds look like? They start as brightly colored (yellow, orange, etc.) slimy masses that are several inches to more than a foot across. They produce many tiny, dark spores. These molds dry out and turn brown, eventually appearing as a white, dry, powdery mass.
Are they a problem? No. These fungi are "feeding" on bacteria growing in the mulch. They are normally a temporary nuisance confined to small areas.
What should be done? The fungi may be left in place to decompose. If their appearance is offensive, discard the fruiting bodies in a compost pile, household garbage, or a spot in the yard away from existing mulch.

Bird's Nest Fungus
Common name: Bird's nest fungus
Scientific names: Species of Crucibulum and Cyathus
What do bird's nest fungi look like? They resemble tiny gray to brown bird's nests or splash cups with eggs. The nest is up to ¼" in diameter.
Are they a problem? These fungi may grow in large areas of mulch, but they are not a problem. The "eggs" are masses of spores that splash out of the nest when hit by a raindrop. These spores occasionally stick to surfaces, as do the spores of the artillery fungus, but they are easily removed and do not leave a stain.
What should be done? These naturally occurring fungi decompose organic matter and do not need to be removed. They are interesting to look at-show them to children!

Artillery Fungus
Common name: Artillery fungus, cannon fungus, shotgun fungus
Scientific name: Species of Sphaerobolus
What do artillery fungi look like? They resemble a tiny cream or orange-brown cup with one black egg. The cup is approximately 1/10" in diameter. Areas of mulch with artillery fungi may appear matted and lighter in color than the surrounding mulch.
Are they a problem? They may be a problem. The fruiting body of this fungus orients itself towards bright surfaces, such as light-colored houses or parked automobiles. The artillery fungus "shoots" its black, sticky spore mass, which can be windblown as high as the second story of a house. The spore mass sticks to the side of a building or automobile, resembling a small speck of tar. You may also find them on the undersides of leaves on plants growing in mulched areas.
Once in place, the spore mass is very difficult to remove without damaging the surface to which it is attached. If removed, it leaves a stain. A few of these spots are barely noticeable, but as they accumulate, they may become very unsightly on houses or cars.
What should be done? To date, there are no known controls for this fungus. With support from the PA Department of Agriculture and private mulch producers, Penn State researchers are studying the problem. They hope to find a wood or bark mulch on which the artillery fungus will not sporulate.
One solution to the artillery fungus problem is to replace wood-based mulch with other types of mulch (such as black plastic or stone) in critical areas adjacent to homes and parking areas. Plastic, however, is not plant friendly, because it prevents water and oxygen from getting to the roots where they are needed. Stone can be attractive but may maintain too much heat or reflect too much light in a bright, sunny area.

This information was taken from the Penn State University brochure, "What is Growing in My Landscape Mulch?" For your own copy with pictures depicting the various types of mulch fungi, contact our office at 610-378-1327 and request the brochure, "What is Growing in My Landscape Mulch."

Return to the top.

Creating Healthy Landscapes

When a plant looks unhealthy or has been injured by an insect or a mite, often our first impulse is to apply a pesticide. But that solution might be a waste of time and money. Applying the wrong pesticide could destroy the pest's natural enemies, which sometimes take care of the problem without any intervention.

A better approach is to manage the health and beauty of trees, shrubs, and flowers with minimal pesticide use. Some call this method integrated pest management (IPM); others call it plant health care (PHC). It involves looking at the total landscape; identifying the insect, mite, disease, or growing condition that appears to be causing a problem; and if any action needs to be taken, choosing from a variety of sound management strategies. This approach takes into account that only 3-5% of insect species are harmful and that most pests have natural enemies such as birds, toads, and beneficial insects to keep them in check.

Penn State Cooperative Extension and well-informed horticulture professionals in the landscape and nursery business suggest using IPM practices. The five steps outlined below will help you take better care of your landscape plants and evaluate the services of professional landscape maintenance companies.

It is important to understand the biology of many different plants. Additionally, knowing how pests and plants are affected by weather is important. Professionals who have this knowledge often are called IPM scouts or PHC technicians. Whether you develop this expertise for your location or hire a skilled professional to provide assistance, you soon will realize that the knowledge needed to monitor the health of a landscape is almost as sophisticated as that required of a physician.

Source: Creating Healthy Landscapes IPM Fact Sheet #1

Return to the top.

Giant Caterpillars

During mid to late summer and early autumn, large, unusually shaped, colorful caterpillars are often seen outdoors. These caterpillars, larvae of moths and butterflies, feed on green leaves of various trees, shrubs, and other plants. The exact host plant or plants vary with each species. Most caterpillars are discovered fully grown when wandering across lawns, driveways, sidewalks, etc., on their way to pupation (resting or overwintering) sites. At this time, they are usually finished eating and will cause little or no further plant damage. Therefore, controls are generally not needed.

Hickory Horned Devil

This caterpillar is the larva of the Royal Walnut Moth, also known as the Regal Moth. The caterpillar has a scary, frightful appearance resembling a small dragon with up to five pairs of long, curving hornlike structures over the back of its thorax with the rest of the body covered with shorter spikes.

The body color ranges from deep blue-green to tan with orange spikes tipped with black. Shorter spikes are black. Though very ferocious appearing, it is quite harmless to handle. They are enormous in size, being 5-6" long and nearly ¾" in diameter. They feed for a period of 37-42 days on the leaves of hickory, walnut, butternut, pecan, ash, lilac, persimmon, sycamore, sumac, and sweetgum. Larvae mature in late summer, wandering around searching for a place to burrow underground to pupate. Overwintering occurs in the pupal stage.

Cecropia Moth Larva

This caterpillar is the larvae of the Cecropia moth. Fully grown cater-pillars are about 4" long and nearly ¾" in diameter. Body color is green with a blue tinge and there are two pairs of orange, and up to eight pairs of yellow, knob-like tubercles over the back-with many smaller pale blue and yellowish-white tipped tubercles along the sides. It feeds on many trees and shrubs including wild cherry, plum, elderberry, maple, willow, boxelder, apple, birch, lilac, walnut, pecan, elm, beech, and poplar. Larvae are easy to rear on any species of wild cherry.

Polyphemus Moth Larva

Larvae reach nearly 5" in length and appear "pushed together" from the ends, making it accordion-shaped. Larvae are fat, pale green, and sparsely covered with hair which is not harmful if touched. They feed on many trees and shrubs including oak, hickory, elm, maple, birch, apple, boxelder, cherry, chestnut, willow, ash, grape, pine, and members of the rose family. The larval period is 48-50 days long. In late summer or early fall, the larva spins a rounded, tough, parchment-like cocoon in the tree or shrub in which it has been feeding. It overwinters in this cocoon and emerges the following spring or summer as a beautiful adult moth.

Imperial Moth Larvae

Caterpillars are yellow-green (sometimes tan or dark brown) and are covered with short, stiff hairs of light blue-green. The lower body half is hunter green. The spiracles (breathing holes) along the sides of the body are large, bright yellow, and rimmed in aqua and black. There are four long, sharp, deep yellow spines just behind the head and shorter sharp spines under the hair. The head is orange-yellow with a black inverted Y in the center. Larvae feed on many trees and shrubs including spruce, pine, oak, maple, sycamore, cherry, birch, alder, elm, sweetgum, sassafras, beech, cedar, and walnut. The larval stage lasts about 42 days after which the larva burrows down into the ground to pupate and overwinter.

Luna Moth Larvae

The larva of the Luna Moth is translucent pale green with a pale yellow line running along the lower side. It is nearly identical to the Polyphemus moth larvae except that the yellow line is missing in the Polyphemus larvae. Luna moth larvae are nearly 4" long and feed on many trees including alder, cherry, walnut, hickory, oak, sweetgum, birch, butternut, beech, willow, chestnut, pecan, hazelnut, and persimmon. The cocoon is usually spun on the ground among leaf litter, so it is difficult to find in the winter.

Promethea Moth Larvae

This caterpillar is the larvae of the Promethea Moth. Larvae are smooth and pale green with a slight bluish cast. There are four prominent red-orange spikes near the head and one yellow spike near the rear. Four smaller black or blue spots are also present on each body segment. The head has two facial spots. Larvae feed on many plants including spicebush, cherry, sassafras, tuliptree, willow, poplar, sweetgum, ash, apple, pear, lilac, wild plum, birch, button bush, basswood, maple, and chokeberry. The larval period is 42-54 days. A compact cocoon in which the larva pupates and overwinters is attached to the host plant by a silken stalk.

Tobacco Hornworm and Tomato Hornworm Larvae
The tobacco hornworm, also known as the Carolina Sphinx Moth larva, has seven diagonal white stripes on each side of the body and a curved red horn at the rear.
The tomato hornworm, also known as the Five-Spotted Hawk Moth larva, has eight curved white stripes on each side of the body and a straight black horn at the rear. Both caterpillars are green, occasionally with a brown or black tinge, and will reach a length of 4". Food plants of both larvae include tobacco, tomato, eggplant, pepper, potato, and related weeds. The larval period ranges from 28-36 days, after which the larva burrows down into the soil 3-4" deep to pupate and overwinter.

Black Swallowtail Butterfly Larvae	Larvae are sometimes called parsley worm, celery worm, carrot worm, or American Swallowtail Butterfly larva. Caterpillars are pale to yellowish green with irregular black cross bands that partially surround yellowish to orange spots. There is a pair of fleshy, odoriferous structures on the top backside of the head.
They feed on parsley, parsnip, celery, carrot, dill, caraway, Queen Anne's lace, and many other related plants. They are sometimes a pest of garden and field crops. There are two or more broods a year. Larvae pupate on a plant stem or other upright structure and overwinter in this stage.

Spicebush Swallowtail Butterfly Larvae Larvae are smooth and green with a pair of eyespots on the sides near the head. The spots are yellow to orange with blue centers rimmed with black. There is a pair of fleshy, odoriferous structures on the top backside of the head.

Larvae usually live in a folded leaf and feed on spicebush, sassafras, sweet bay, prickly ash, and other shrubs. Larvae pupate on the host plant and overwinter in the pupal stage. There are two to three broods a year, depending on the climate. Note: Additional caterpillars can be identified by checking in a Golden Guide booklet entitled "Butterflies and Moths," published by Golden Press of New York; or in either of the Peterson Field Guides, "A Field Guide to the Butterflies of Eastern North America," or "A Field Guide to the Moths of Eastern North America," published by Houghton Mifflin Company of Boston. Source: Ohio State University Extension Entomology Fact Sheet

Return to the top.

Container Gardening Outdoors

Why grow plants in containers? Look at the advantages! Containers are portable-you can arrange and rearrange them as often as you like. Move them around your garden in the summer or to the indoors in winter. They add color, interest, and variety to the architecture of gardens large and small, whether your garden is a balcony, patio, or an estate. Using containers, you can experiment with new plants, create a miniature alpine or water garden, or grow annuals, vegetables, or fruits in small spaces. Gardening in containers allows you to use the right type of soil for a plant that otherwise might not grow in your garden's soils.

Containers

Plant containers come in all shapes, sizes, and materials. To judge what size you'll need, consider the amount of space available and the ultimate size of the plant. For example, a large shrub or small tree will need a deep pot to accommodate its roots. Clay and terra cotta are more porous; the soil gets cooler and drier and will need more watering. Plastic and fiberglass hold heat and water better, and also are lighter and less expensive, but may crack or break with age. Stone and concrete containers are very durable, but heavy and relatively expensive.

Any container should have enough drainage holes at or near the base, and should be free of old soil and plant parts. If you have any doubts, scrub it with a mild detergent, then with disinfectant, and rinse with clean water. Presoaking in plain water sometimes helps to loosen encrusted dirt and roots.

Planting Techniques

To improve aeration and add weight to the base, line the bottom with pebbles, rocks, stone chips, broken pottery, or similar material. Consider using plastic or nylon gauze over the drainage holes inside large pots before adding rocks-this keeps out worms and insects but keeps in soil.

Make a good basic potting mix by combining one part sterile loam soil with one part soilless mix; add a slow release granular or powdered fertilizer. Although this is a good general soil mix, you will need to adjust it for special plants. Essentially you want a combination of organic material with a material that is coarse and gritty.

Fill your container half full with potting mix, pressing it down gently. The mix should be damp. Stand the plant in the soil and then fill the pot with more soil. The soil will sink as air pockets get filled in, so be sure to add enough. Leave some space between the top of the soil and the top of the container so water doesn't spill out. The soil should be moist but not soaked.

Two common mistakes are underpotting and overpotting. A plant grown in a container that is too large or too small will suffer unnecessarily and may even die. Use your eye to judge the proper size. A good rule of thumb is that the root ball of the plant should have about one inch of soil around it. For best results, most plants should be moved into progressively larger pots using fresh soil mix.

Water and Fertilizer

Keep the soil evenly moist, starting at planting time. Outdoor containers will need more frequent watering than houseplants, especially when temperatures get high or when in direct sun. Check the soil daily. If the top layer feels dry to the touch, water the plant thoroughly using tepid water until water runs through the drainage holes. If possible, water in the morning so the moisture can evaporate during the day. Feed an established plant every few weeks with a water soluble or liquid fertilizer.

Plants for Containers

Almost any plant that will not get too big at maturity can be grown in a container. Besides annuals, perennials, and bulbs, you can try small trees and shrubs, water and marsh plants, roses, climbing vines, herbs, and vegetables. Try a salad garden in a container-you can harvest lettuce, chives, or whatever you plant, and reseed for a new crop. For color, add edible flowers such as nasturtiums or calendulas.

When you choose plants, consider your site and the plant's requirements. Which way does your container garden face? Will there be enough light for the plants you choose? If your garden faces south, there will be plenty of winter light and summer warmth. East- and west-facing areas will have shade for part of the day, but should be bright enough for most plants. Northern exposures or walls will be fully shaded for much of the year and can get cold in winter. How much wind is there? What is the hottest summer temperature and the coldest winter temperature? Check what conditions a plant needs before you buy it.

Source: Penn State Cooperative Extension in Berks County

Return to the top.

Woodchucks        

The woodchuck, also known as the groundhog or whistle pig, is one of Pennsylvania's most widely distributed mammals. The woodchuck's compact, chunky body is supported by short, strong legs. Its forefeet have long, curved claws that are well adapted for digging burrows. Its short tail is well covered with dark brown fur. Both sexes are similar in appearance, but the slightly larger males weigh an average of 5-10 pounds. The total length of the head and body averages 16-20", and the tail is usually 4-7" long. Like other rodents, woodchucks have white or yellowish-white, chisel-like incisor teeth. Their eyes, ears, and nose are located toward the top of the head, which allows them to remain concealed in their burrows while they check for danger over the rim or edge.

General Biology

In general, woodchucks prefer to construct their burrows in open farmland and in the wooded or brushy areas adjacent to open land. However, they also can be found in woodlands, on abandoned farms, and occasionally in suburban areas where the combination of food and cover provides satisfactory habitat. Burrows commonly are located in fields and pastures, along fence rows, stone walls, roadsides, and near building foundations or the bases of trees.

A woodchuck burrow serves as home to the woodchuck for mating, raising young, hibernating, and escaping danger. Woodchuck burrows can be identified by the large mound of excavated earth at the main entrance. On this mound, which is constantly renewed by debris from within, the woodchuck frequently sits to look for danger. From the entranceway, which is 10-12" in diameter, the burrow goes down at a rather steep angle and then levels off into a narrower tunnel. A single nest chamber, used for sleeping and raising young, is formed at the end of the burrow. Other rooms are used as toilet areas. By separating nest areas from toilet areas, the den is kept relatively clean and free from disease. In addition to the main entranceway, there are commonly one to three secondary entrances. These secondary entrances are dug from below and do not have mounds of earth beside them. They are often well hidden and sometimes difficult to locate. Woodchucks usually range only 50-150 feet from their dens and can retreat quickly into the burrow when threatened.

Woodchucks primarily feed in the early morning and evening hours. They are strict herbivores and feed on a variety of vegetables, grasses, and legumes. Preferred foods include soybeans, beans, peas, carrot tops, alfalfa, clover, and grasses. When not feeding, they sometimes bask in the sun during the warmest periods of the day. Woodchucks also are good climbers and sometimes can be seen in lower tree branches.

Woodchucks have a life span of about 3-4 years. Their primary predators include hawks, owls, foxes, coyotes, bobcats, weasels, dogs, and humans. Many woodchucks are killed on roads by automobiles.

Description of Damage

On occasion, the woodchuck's feeding and burrowing habits conflict with human interests. Damage often occurs on farms, in home gardens, orchards, nurseries, and around buildings. Damage to crops such as alfalfa, soybeans, beans, squash, tomatoes, and peas can be costly and extensive. A homeowner may lose his or her entire tomato patch. Fruit trees and ornamental shrubs may be damaged by woodchucks as they gnaw on woody vegetation. Mounds of earth from the excavated burrow systems and holes formed at burrow entrances present a hazard to farm equipment, horses, and riders. On occasion, burrowing can weaken dikes and building foundations.

Legal Status

In Pennsylvania, woodchucks are classified as game animals. Game protection is removed when woodchucks damage personal property. In that case, woodchucks can be controlled by the property owner using the lawful means described in this fact sheet.

Damage Control

Woodchuck damage is a common problem, but it can be controlled in a number of ways. If the property owner does not feel he or she can properly handle the damage control techniques, many wildlife pest control operators are available throughout the state.

Exclusion

The most permanent control method is fencing. However, the practicality of fencing depends on the size of the area to be fenced. Fences should be at least 3 feet high and made of heavy poultry wire or 2" woven mesh wire. To prevent woodchucks from burrowing under the

Frightening

Scarecrows and other effigies can provide temporary relief from woodchuck damage. Move them regularly and incorporate a high level of human activity in the susceptible area.

Repellents and Toxicants

No repellents or toxicants are registered for woodchuck control in Pennsylvania.

Fumigants

Gas Cartridges (carbon monoxide) - The most common means of woodchuck control is the use of commercial gas cartridges. These specially designed cardboard cylinders are filled with slow-burning chemicals. They are ignited and placed in a burrow system, and all entrances to the burrow are then sealed. As the gas cartridges burn, they produce carbon monoxide and other gases that are lethal to woodchucks. Gas cartridges are a General Use Pesticide and often are available from local farm supply stores. Directions for their use are on the label and should be closely followed.

Be careful when using gas cartridges. Do not use them in burrows located under wooden sheds, buildings, or near other combustible materials because of the potential fire hazard. Gas cartridges are ignited by lighting a fuse. They will not explode if properly prepared and used. Caution should be taken to avoid prolonged breathing of fumes. Follow label directions.

Trapping

Live traps should be at least 10" x 10" x 24" in size. A live trap may be placed either at the burrow entrance, in major travel lanes, or at the site of damage. Place guide logs on either side of the trap to help funnel the animal into it. A trap should also be covered with dark canvas or grass to conceal it. Bait traps with apple slices, carrots with tops, cantaloupe pieces, lettuce, cabbage, or ample amounts of fresh peas. Replace the bait daily and remove any wilted pieces from the trap. Check all traps twice daily, morning and evening, so that captured animals may be quickly removed.

The information for this article was taken from Penn State University's publication Wildlife Damage Control #8 - Woodchucks. For further information on groundhogs and damage control, contact our office at 610-378-1327 and request a free copy of Wildlife Damage Control #8 "Woodchucks."

Return to the top.

Chrysanthemums For The Home

The hardy chrysanthemum (or "mum"), aristocrat of the fall garden, is one of the best perennial plants for late summer and fall bloom. They are important in many landscapes, flowering during September and October when few other plants are in bloom. They bloom over a long period, exist in a very wide range of form and color, and require a minimum of care.

Hardy mums can be planted in many areas around the home. Tall varieties make excellent background plants and can be used for cut flowers. Medium height varieties are used for container plants on porches and terraces or in planters. The "cushion" mums (low-growing varieties) can be used for edging a flower border. Chrysanthemums can be moved any time, from early spring until they are in bloom. Some homeowners move them when in bloom to fill vacant places in their flower beds or borders in late fall.

Mums may survive and bloom well in one location year after year, but they are usually best the first year and then start to decline. Therefore, it is desirable to use new plants each year or every other year.

Chrysanthemums are relatively easy to propagate from cuttings or by division of the old crown. Only healthy plants should be used for propagation. Divide early in the spring before new growth begins. Dig the clump and break or cut off the shoots from around it, leaving a mass of roots on each piece. Discard the center-it is last year's roots and stems and is of no value.

Softwood cuttings from the tips of the new spring growth can be taken and rooted. When the new growth is 6-8" long, remove about 3-4" of the tip. This is a tip cutting. Remove the basal leaves for easy insertion in clean sand, vermiculite, perlite, peat moss, or various combinations of these materials. Keep the propagation medium moist but do not over water. In approximately two to three weeks, the cuttings should be rooted sufficiently to be transplanted to containers, flower beds, or gardens.

Chrysanthemums should be planted in May or early June. Plant in full sunshine where they will not have competition from other plants and where the drainage is very good. They are heavy feeders, so fertilize with a 5-10-5 fertilizer at three pounds per 100 square feet at planting time. If the pH is not around 6.0 to 6.5, add limestone along with the fertilizer. Work the fertilizer into the bed to a depth of 12-15" if possible. Then set the plants 18-24" apart. The spacing depends upon the variety and whether a few exhibition size blooms or numerous smaller flowers are to be produced.

The quality of the plants and the quality and quantity of flowers depends on the care given them during the summer. The important cultural practices are pinching, feeding, and watering.

Pinching is removing the tips of the soft new shoots to induce the plant to branch. When the plants reach a height of 6-8", pinch or cut off about ½" of the tip. This makes lateral or side shoots develop. When these branches are 8-10" long, remove about ½" of the tip. Some varieties may need a third pinch if they are extremely vigorous, but two pinches are usually enough. Pinching should not be done after mid July if long stemmed cut flowers are desired.

Disbudding is the removal of lateral buds so that the terminal flowers will be larger. However, it is not practiced with most modern hardy garden chrysanthemums.

The amount of fertilizer needed to produce top quality chrysanthemum flowers varies considerably, depending on the soil. Plants with heavy stems and thick, dark green leaves are probably getting all the nutrients they need. Small, light green leaves and spindly, weak stems are probably indicators of something lacking in the soil. A feeding solution of a heaping tablespoon of 5-10-5 fertilizer per gallon of water applied 7-10 days until flowers show color has been a successful feeding program. It is better to apply a weak fertilizer at frequent intervals than a heavy one infrequently.

A chrysanthemum in full growth needs lots of water. During drought, water the plants when the soil becomes too dry. Soak the ground thoroughly every week or two so the plants keep growing continuously. Leaf diseases are less troublesome if the foliage is kept dry, especially during the night.

Tall, cut flower types should be staked to keep them upright because they tend to break or fall over. The lower growing varieties do not require staking if they have been properly pinched, fed, and watered.

Source: Virginia Cooperative Extension Service

Return to the top.

Landscape Plants for Wet Areas Soils that remain wet during the growing season can be especially challenging for gardeners. Wet areas are those soils in low spots or adjacent to bodies of water that are consistently wet during the growing season. They lack surface water, but the soil is damp to wet in the top 12 to 18 inches. Contact our office at 610-378-1327 for a list of plants for some ideas regarding plants for wet areas.

The article will list and briefly describes landscape plants that are suitable for the specific site conditions of wet soil. These lists can serve as a guide, but are not intended to be exhaustive. Many other plants may grow well in wet soil conditions besides the ones on the list.

Winter survival is fundamental to success of perennial landscape plants. Select only plants from the list with a hardiness zone number equal to or lower than the zone for the location they will be planted. In our area of Pennsylvania, look for plants that are hardy in Zones 5 or 6.

Growing Geraniums Geraniums are one of the most reliable plants grown in the home garden. They can be obtained in flower in late spring and will add color to the garden until frost. Some plants become quite large, with huge flowers; others are smaller. The new cultivars offer almost shatter-proof flowers that withstand wind and rain. Geraniums can be obtained as seedlings or established plants.

Set out plants in the spring after danger of frost is past. Geraniums that have been injured by cold temperatures will stand still and make little growth, often with red foliage. A late May planting will be more satisfactory as the plants will establish better. Plant geraniums where they will receive sunlight for best flower production. Plants will grow in partial shade, but flowering is reduced even though foliage is produced. Select a site where water drainage is good. Geraniums will grow in almost any type of soil if well-aerated and porous. This means that heavy clay soils should be improved by adding organic matter each year. An inch of coarse sphagnum peat moss, partially rotted manure, or compost spaded in when preparing the beds is ideal.

Garden centers, greenhouses, and retail outlets sell plants in the spring. These plants may or may not be in flower. Plants are generally available as rooted cuttings or as seedlings in plastic trays or pots. These are sure to grow because all you do is remove the container without disturbing the soil around the plant. Plants should be set in the soil no deeper than the depth they were growing in the pot. If possible, plant shallower. If you plant too deeply, stem rot will usually kill the plant.

Once planted, firm the soil around the roots. Be careful not to injure the stem of the plant since this provides an opening for diseases to enter. Water thoroughly after planting. Liquid fertilizers such as 20-20-20 or 15-30-15 should also be applied at the rate recommended on the package. Water after applying fertilizer, not only to get it into the soil where the roots of the plants can get it, but also to avoid burning. Any fertilizer that gets on the foliage of the plants should be rinsed off with water.

Additional plants can be started from stem cuttings or "slips." Remove these cuttings from the tip of the stems. They should be 3-4" long. Shorter ones can be taken if necessary. Strip off the lower leaves to facilitate sticking the cuttings in the rooting medium. Perlite, sharp sand alone, or sand mixed equally with sphagnum peat moss is an ideal medium for rooting the cuttings.

Stick the cuttings an inch deep into the medium and water thoroughly. Place the container in a north or east window until rooted. Rooting occurs best with soil temperatures of 72-75°F. This generally takes 3-4 weeks. During the rooting period, water sparingly. The trick to successful rooting is to grow the cuttings on the dry side. When cuttings are rooted, place them in four-inch pots. After the cuttings become established, which takes about a week, start fertilizing with a liquid fertilizer such as 20-20-20 or 15-30-15 at half the recommended rate of application. Make monthly applications thereafter until the plants are planted outside in beds.

Pest problems are minimal with geraniums. Always keep fading flower stalks removed to reduce botrytis. Proper plant spacing will reduce botrytis (that can sometimes build up during wet seasons) on leaves.

Occasionally, geranium plants or single leaves will wilt for no apparent reason. This should alert the homeowner to a serious problem known as bacterial blight. Infected plants will more readily display this symptom under high (70-80°F) temperatures. No sprays are available; removal of the plant from the site should be done immediately. Plants purchased from greenhouses have been started from clean stock plants or seeds, thus eliminating many potential disease problems.

Gardeners often like to experiment and keep over their geraniums from year to year. This is possible by taking cuttings in late August and rooting them as discussed earlier. Plants can also be dug, trimmed back to half their original height, repotted and placed in a sunny window for the winter months. Some people also save geraniums by digging them, removing the soil, and hanging them from the rafters in the basement on hooks. In general, this method will work under high humidity (85-90%) and cool temperatures (50-55°F), but modern homes are too dry, thus causing dehydration of the plant. Because there is no sure way of knowing if this method will work in your home, try it. If successful, you will have plants next spring.

There are many types of geraniums. The majority today are produced from seed. Look for plants in these seed propagated families-Ringo, Bandit, Elite, Orbit, Pinto, Multibloom, and Lone Ranger-for good results. Cutting type geraniums that perform well in the reds include Kim, Mars, Tango, Yours Truly, and Sincerity. Pink and other varieties include Cherry Blossom, Helena, Katie, Pink Expectations, Pink Satisfaction, and Rio. Unusual geraniums such as ivy-leafed, scented, and Martha Washington can also be grown by homeowners.

Ivy-leafed geraniums display a characteristic of trailing stems that make them ideal for containers. Flowers are more toned to the pastel range of their hues. Keep plants evenly moist in an east or north exposure. Ivy types do not tolerate temperatures above 85°F for long periods.

Scented type geraniums should be grown in full sun to develop the volatile leaf oils. Flowers are less significant with this group, but the softly scented leaves give fragrant oils that are useful in sachets.

Martha Washington or Regal geraniums are sold in early spring and require cool temperatures (60°F and below) at night to stay in bloom. Warm summer temperatures will cause flowering to cease until fall when temperatures are favorable.

Source: Ohio State University Extension Fact Sheet.

Return to the top.